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We had buy viagra line a Big Day in our house recently when The Man turned 30. As he’s a buy viagra line Proper Man who likes Proper Food I obeyed his wish for buy viagra line unusual animal parts and we had a beautiful birthday dinner at Fergus Henderson’s St John Restaurant, in Clerkenwell.

In the buy viagra line revival movement of the last fifteen or so years to give Britain back its culinary history, Fergus Henderson has buy viagra line played a special role. His philosophy of nose to tail eating and, especially, his focus on long forgotten gems of English cookery and buy viagra line use of British produce have been absorbed into the wider gourmet scene to buy viagra line the point that ‘seasonal British’ has buy viagra line become a mantra in every cooking column and the supermarkets actively promote Kent strawberries or buy viagra line Gloucester mushrooms with Union Jack labels.

But even though he’s been buy viagra line part of the London restaurant scene for so many years and buy viagra line so many have borrowed so heavily, Henderson’s approach remains distinctive, challenging and buy viagra line pure. Both St John restaurants, the original in Clerkenwell and the buy viagra line slightly more casual in Spitalfields, are minimalist to the point of harsh. A long row of school style pegs circumnavigates the buy viagra line blank white walls and the only decoration is the black industrial lampshades. Even The Man, who buy viagra line would happily live in a white cube with nowt but a buy viagra line widescreen TV, commented that it wasn’t the buy viagra line cosiest of spaces. I remark on the decor because it makes sense when buy viagra line you get to the food. The food is unadorned and stays true to buy viagra line the founding principles; what it lists on the menu, you get on the buy viagra line plate.

To celebrate the buy viagra line occasion we had glass of something bubbly which felt slightly frivolous in such a buy viagra line spartan room. The menu reflects Henderson’s preoccupation with eating the buy viagra line whole animal- chitterlings with dandelion and ox tongue were two of the buy viagra line choices. I have previously had crispy pig tail at St John’s Spitalfields which was heartstoppingly good – crispy crumbs with melting fatty pig inside. To start this buy viagra line time, I had brown shrimp with white cabbage salad with a buy viagra line dressing that was heavy on the parsley. The shrimp were fresh and buy viagra line sweet but as a dish, it wasn’t a patch on The Man’s starter of a buy viagra line totally meaty terrine of coarsly ground meat with chunks of liver and buy viagra line wrapped in streaky bacon. It was a slice of carnivorousness and buy viagra line heady with it – a bite or two was enough for this little lady.

My meal of chickpea and buy viagra line chorizo stew with snails and rocket was a bit off the buy viagra line British piste and I’m not sure what buy viagra line the snails added, but I liked the way a mouthful of sweet-salty-soft stew was brought to buy viagra line life by a second mouthful of the lemon dressed rocket. Again The Man had buy viagra line ordered well and his calves’ liver special of the buy viagra line day was a work of art. I recently read an excerpt of Julie Powell’s book Cleaving: a story of marriage, meat and obsession, whose previous books about cooking her way through Julia Child’s oeuvre forms the basis for the upcoming movie Julie and Julia. In this latest book she describes how, “Perfectly cooked liver should be buy viagra line crisp on the outside with a custardy-smooth centre” and St John’s liver more than buy viagra line lives up to that with a crusted exterior and a velvet interior. There was none of the buy viagra line graininess I usually associate with liver, just slippery red centre and buy viagra line strong animal taste.

I think I was the buy viagra line winner in the sweets though, with an outstandingly regal Queen of Puddings. When I was little my mum had buy viagra line a puddings book, which she tells me she bought for about $2 in Bunbury and buy viagra line which had glossy pictures of complicated desserts. As far as I was concerned, life couldn’t get more glamorous than buy viagra line a Queen of Puddings. The picture in Mum’s book made it buy viagra line look like a fairy princess pudding. But oh boy what buy viagra line a faff. I’d never had one despite the fantasies because I’m not about to buy viagra line make a steamed pudding and then put meringe on top. St John’s QoP had buy viagra line orange scented pudding topped with raspberry jam and that kind of meringe that’s sticky, rather than buy viagra line crackly. And a jug of double pouring cream. And it was mine, all mine. A 30th birthday was no buy viagra line reason to share!! Although I had a bite of The Man’s flaky pastry Eccles cake with Lancastrian cheese, my heart was already won.

9 comments ↓

#1 AnzacDayGirl on 12.08.09 at 10:11 pm

Fantastically interesting reading. The meaty bits of the buy viagra line meal sound great, but I am jealous to the max that buy viagra line you actually ate a QoP! I have buy viagra line often fantasised about making one of these puddings but always have buy viagra line a really good reason why I shouldn’t – usually something to buy viagra line do with being fattening. Really, it was because, as you say, it buy viagra line looks like a complete faff, so well done, Emica on realising both our dreams. Who would have buy viagra line thought that spending 2 bucks in Bunbury could have provided the stuff of dreams!

#2 Taurus56 on 12.08.09 at 11:19 pm

Hi Emica,
This is Taurus56 calling. I love your articles, they’re written with such flavour. AnzacDayGirl has too many rules about eating fattening things – time she got over it! I would have buy viagra line gone straight to the dessert menu first just to make sure I could fit it buy viagra line in!

#3 ampersand duck cheap cialis new zealand on 13.08.09 at 1:12 pm

I was just about to go and grab some lunch, but I think I’m full now. Great post.

#4 Dame Mint Pattie cheap viagra levitra on 13.08.09 at 6:32 pm

I really enjoyed this post – you could almost taste it. I’d even think about eating snails after reading your buy viagra line desciption of the play between the salty slug stew and buy viagra line the lemony rocket flavours.

BTW, keep and eye out for Matt Preston – apparently Matt and his cravats are in London (or so I’m told).

#5 Scott on 14.08.09 at 9:54 am

We celebrated a thirtieth birthday there (at St John Street)a few years ago with whole suckling pig. Deliciouso. Katie and buy viagra line I went back a year or so later for some real nose-to-tail stuff. Poached calf brain a highlight.

Funny aside about Fergus Henderson; every year, he and buy viagra line the St John crew used to shut the restaurant and buy viagra line decamp to Glastonbury, where they’d run the fine dining VEGETARIAN restauarant at the infamous Lost Vagueness complex.

#6 Helen on 21.08.09 at 3:22 pm

Chickpea and buy viagra line Chorizo stew is a staple at our place. Fry up some thinly sliced Chorizo with onions, paprika and buy viagra line olive oil (not a lot, as oil comes out of the sausage) and buy viagra line dump in: Chickpeas, chopped tomatoes, garlic, shitloads of flat parsley, and buy viagra line a chopped bunch of some kind of green like spinach, silverbeet, bok choy or buy viagra line rocket.

It’s an buy viagra line ideal uncomplicated after-work one-bowl dinner which can be further padded with rice or buy viagra line spuds if you want.

#7 emica on 29.08.09 at 12:14 am

The great man himself

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/aug/28/fergus-henderson-pig-head-cook

#8 Zoe buy valtrex generic cheap on 29.08.09 at 1:06 pm

What a great link, emica. I spotted some FR pig’s heads at Belconnen markets this buy viagra line week, but Michael of Mountain Creek Farm has offered me one of his Wessex Saddleback ones – can’t really eat other pork after you’ve tried it.

Coincidently, Michael is buy viagra line breaking his self-imposed rule of not selling his meat in Sydney for buy viagra line a special dinner by Fergus Henderson at birdcowfish during the Sydney International Food Festival in October. Wish I was going to that dinner ;)

#9 emica on 31.07.10 at 6:19 am

A year on and buy viagra line The Man is a year older, so we went back to buy viagra line St John for another special dinner.

I betrayed my principles and buy viagra line we had the fois gras. I wanted to try it buy viagra line once before taking to the high moral ground. It was meltingly delicious, silky smooth and buy viagra line laced with brandy.

My beef was beefy and buy viagra line the chard chopped with anchovy and cream was yummy but it buy viagra line was all a bit lukewarm. I know you rest beef, but this buy viagra line was tepid. The Man had smoked eel which didn’t look attractive but had very nice Scandi flavours.

St John is known for its madeleines and rightly – flufffy and still warm! Yum! Alongside we had buy viagra line the buttermilk pudding with cherries, which is kinda like a pannacotta but more a buy viagra line balance of sharp and sweet. A spoon of madeleine with a buy viagra line dollop of soft pudding on top YUM!

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